Brazil travel: an 18-day itinerary through Rio, Foz do Iguaçu, the Amazon and the Lençóis Maranhenses

South America had been on our dream list for the longest time. You know those trips you put off year after year because they always seem “too far away”, “too complicated to organise”, “maybe next year”? Well, for us South America was exactly that. Then, at a certain point, we decided the moment had come.

But where do you even start when you’ve got a whole continent in front of you? For us, the choice fell almost naturally on Brazil: a country that on its own seems to hold a thousand different worlds. The perfect place for a first taste of South America.

We built an 18-day itinerary that took us from Rio de Janeiro to the Foz do Iguaçu waterfalls, from the heart of the Amazon to the incredible dunes of the Lençóis Maranhenses. An intense trip, honestly a fairly tiring one too, but one that filled our eyes with wonder. 🇧🇷

In this article I’ll tell you everything: the stops, what to do at each one, and the practical tips to organise yourselves at your best.

Before we get going with the story, one important thing: if you’re organising your trip and need practical info on documents, vaccinations, safety, eSIMs and what to pack (especially for the Amazon, where you need specific gear!), I’ve put together a dedicated guide so as not to weigh this article down. You’ll find it here 👉 Brazil travel: everything you need to know before you go.

In short: our 18-day itinerary in Brazil took in four different worlds: Rio de Janeiro (Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf Mountain, the beaches and the Rocinha favela), the Foz do Iguaçu falls (worth seeing from both the Brazilian and the Argentine side), the Amazon (in a lodge, immersed in the forest) and the Lençóis Maranhenses (white dunes and turquoise lagoons). Between stops you travel by internal flights (we used Latam), to be booked in advance. The time of year changes the experience a lot, especially in the Amazon and at the Lençóis.

Stop 1 — Rio de Janeiro (4 days)

We devoted 4 full days to Rio as soon as we arrived in Brazil, and then another 2 on the way back. In my view, considering there’s so much to see and that some excursions take basically a whole day, 6-7 days in Rio is perfect.

Christ the Redeemer

Christ the Redeemer is one of those places you’ve seen a thousand times in photos, and you wonder whether it’ll really move you in person. My answer is: yes, and a lot.
The number one tip I can give you is just one: go really early. Up at 6-7 in the morning and off you go, because we got there right as it opened and there was already a flood of people. Imagine later on.
The other big variable is the weather: loads of people get up there and find Christ completely wrapped in cloud, you can barely see a thing. We were lucky, we caught a deep blue sky and the 360-degree view over Rio was something incredible: the bay, Sugarloaf in the distance, Copacabana, Ipanema… all beneath your feet. ✨

📌 Tip: booking on the official website takes forever and our cards often aren’t accepted by the system. It’s worth spending a little extra: GetYourGuide HERE with their guided group tours, or alternatively on Viator HERE you’ll find the skip-the-line ticket.

Sugarloaf Mountain

Sugarloaf is Rio’s other iconic symbol, reached via two consecutive cable cars (first up to Morro da Urca, then to the top of Sugarloaf itself).
It was absolutely packed. And when I say packed I mean endless queues. We got the express pass that lets you skip the line and I’ll tell you straight: even though it costs more, I’d do it again without thinking twice. You can buy it on Viator HERE.

Queuing in the tropical sun for hours is not the best way to start the day. The time you save is worth every euro.
The view from the top is spectacular, especially at sunset if you can plan it that way.

Escadaria Selarón

We got there easily by Uber (in Rio Uber is basically the solution for everything, as I mentioned in the practical guide you’ll find here). The Escadaria Selarón is a staircase created by the Chilean artist Jorge Selarón that connects Lapa to the bohemian district of Santa Teresa, entirely covered in colourful tiles from all over the world. Really distinctive and iconic!

Morro Dois Irmãos

This was one of the most intense moments of our Rio tour. The Morro Dois Irmãos is a trail that starts from the Vidigal favela and climbs to the top of the “Two Brothers Hill”, with a view over Ipanema, Leblon and the southern tip of Rio that is simply among the most beautiful in the whole city.

That said, I’ll warn you honestly: it’s really demanding. As far as I’m concerned it was one of the toughest hikes of the trip — a super steep trail, humid tropical heat, serious elevation gain. We made it, but what an effort, my friends.

Loads of tours leave before dawn to reach the top with the first light and in theory it’s atmospheric. But honestly: it was already hard in daylight, I can’t imagine doing it in the dark with a head torch. If you’re fit and love a challenge, fine; otherwise go for the daytime slot and take your time getting up there. On Viator HERE you’re spoilt for choice on tours!

Tijuca Forest + Botanical Garden

The Tijuca Forest is one of the largest urban forests in the world, and crossing it is an interesting experience for understanding Rio’s “green lung”. The Botanical Garden, on the other hand, honestly? Nice, but nothing special. It’s pleasant to do if you’re into plants and orchids, but if you’re short on time or aren’t particularly interested in botany, in my view you can happily skip it and devote that half day to something else.

Favela Rocinha

I’ll say it right away: the visit to the favela was incredible, and probably one of the most meaningful experiences of the whole trip to Brazil.

Going into Rocinha, the largest favela in Rio and in all of Brazil, accompanied by a specialised guide, makes you realise that the reality is far more complex, layered, alive and human than we imagine. It’s a “city within the city”, with its own economy, its own rules, its own culture.
We went up to the top by moto-taxi and then walked down through the alleys, observing daily life up close. All strictly with the utmost respect for residents, so no photos (only the guide can tell you when you’re allowed to take any).

📌 Important: the favela is visited ONLY with official, specialised guides. You don’t go there on your own. Ever. HERE you can choose the tour you prefer.

Copacabana and Ipanema

The beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema are Rio. Yes, it’s true, they’re absolutely packed. Squashed like sardines on your towel. But that’s exactly the beauty of it: the atmosphere is that of a city that lives the beach as if it were its own living room. The most fun thing of all is watching the endless parade of vendors going past selling literally everything: caipirinhas, açaí, grilled crab, bikinis, sunglasses, sarongs, fresh coconut… it never ends. A show within the show.

🎥 Here’s the reel I made on the beach, which in my view conveys it far better than any description I could put into words. 😄
A super-carioca gem: customised Havaianas.
A really lovely thing we did in Rio was getting customised Havaianas made. In the official stores in the city you can choose the base model and then customise them with colours, prints, charms and initials. The result is super original and they also make a really nice souvenir/gift.

🎥 I’ll also leave you the reel I made on the customised Havaianas.

What I didn’t have time for and would have loved to do

When I said that 6/7 days in Rio is the minimum… there are at least two experiences that stayed in my heart and that I had to skip for lack of time:
🌴 Ilha Grande: a paradise island a few hours from Rio, crystal-clear sea, unspoilt beaches. But you get there by boat, so you need a whole day.
⚽ A football match at the Maracanã: experiencing a Brazilian match inside the Maracanã, with the crowd singing and dancing, must be an experience with no equal in the world. If you can, do it! Hotels often sell match tickets too!

Where to stay in Rio?

We stayed at the Rio Othon Palace (Booking link HERE), right in the heart of Copacabana, which in my opinion is the ideal area to stay in Rio: walking distance from the beach, lively, safe and well connected. My tip: when you book, consider the renovated rooms.

We tried both the old ones and the renovated ones and there’s a huge difference in terms of comfort, modernity and quality of the furnishings. It’s worth spending a little more. Other things we loved: the enormous buffet breakfast and the rooftop pool with a view of the sea and Sugarloaf.

Stop 2 — Foz do Iguaçu (2 days)

From Rio, with 2 internal flights on the airline Latam, we reach Foz do Iguaçu, where one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World awaits us: the world-famous Iguaçu Falls.

It’s a system of 275 waterfalls stretching almost 3 kilometres along the border between Brazil and Argentina, and you absolutely must visit them from both sides, because they offer completely different perspectives.

The Brazilian side holds only 20% of the falls. Put like that it sounds like very little, but in fact it’s from here that you get the most complete panoramic view of the whole complex, because you look head-on at the ones on the Argentine side. On the Argentine side, instead, you don’t look at the falls from afar: you find yourself practically inside them. There are several walkway circuits (upper and lower) that bring you right up close to the various drops, but the highlight is when you reach the Garganta del Diablo: a U-shaped gorge about 82 metres high, where roughly half the water flow of the entire system is concentrated. You get there on an eco-friendly little train and then a long walkway over the river. The roar is deafening, the spray wraps around you completely, and if you’re lucky you’ll even see a rainbow. I have to admit one thing: after seeing the landscapes of Iceland, I’ve become a little harder to impress when it comes to natural phenomena. But the Iguaçu Falls, especially from the Argentine side, really remain one of the most beautiful things we saw in Brazil.

📌 Practical tip: to visit the Argentine side you have to cross the border. It’s a quick procedure and for us Italians no visa is needed, but to do this tour rely on a guide or an organised tour so you don’t waste time. On Viator HERE you’ll find various options with transfers and entry included, and you’ll have a private guide with you throughout!

Where to stay in Foz?

In Foz we stayed at the Nadai Confort Hotel & Spa (Booking link HERE) and I recommend it with my eyes closed. A really lovely hotel, handy for reaching the National Park, a well-kept property and very kind staff.

Stop 3 — The Amazon (we did 5 days, but I’d recommend 4)

From Foz do Iguaçu, with two internal flights again with Latam, we reach Manaus, the gateway to the Brazilian Amazon. From here, after a night in the city, you set off towards the true heart of the forest: the lodge where we’ll spend the following days, completely immersed in nature.

What to expect from a “week” in the Amazon

I’ll say it straight away: the Amazon was one of the most unique and unforgettable experiences of the whole trip. There’s really no other way to describe it: you cut yourself off from the world entirely — no WiFi, no signal, no constant electricity — and you fully immerse yourself in the forest and in the life of those who live there.

The days were a succession of “strolls” by boat along the rivers and walks on foot through the jungle with our guide. Between immersive treks in the forest, dawn canoe outings for birdwatching, visits to local communities, piranha fishing and even a night canoe outing to look for caimans, there isn’t a single dull moment.

🎥 On Instagram HERE you’ll find the post where I summed up how we lived these days immersed in nature, with lots of photos and videos that convey it far better than a thousand words.

The lodge: all-inclusive, zero worries

One important thing to know: the lodge you choose organises everything directly themselves. Transfers to/from Manaus, daily excursions, local guides and an all-inclusive formula with breakfast, lunch and dinner. A single booking and zero logistical worries, which is perfect because in the Amazon there’s really no way to “improvise”.

We stayed at the Turtle Lodge and had a great time. Our guide was called Marcelinho and he was incredibly knowledgeable and great fun, one of those people who make you fall even more in love with a place. I recommend him with my eyes closed.

A crucial thing to consider when planning the Amazon is the time of year.
We went in April, in the middle of the rainy season. This means the water level was very high and you moved around almost exclusively by boat, because many of the forest trails were flooded. It was magical in a way, because in this period the forest transforms and you navigate among partly submerged trees, in a surreal landscape.

As for the animals, we saw monkeys, toucans, lots of parrots, sloths, caimans and an incredible variety of tropical birds. Not bad at all!
But be careful, because the dry season (from September to November) offers a completely different experience: the water drops by as much as 10-15 metres, the forest trails re-emerge and — crucially for wildlife lovers — it’s much easier to spot jaguars, which come to the riverbanks to drink. If spotting a jaguar is a secret dream of yours, absolutely go in the dry season.
So let’s say there isn’t a “right” or “wrong” period in absolute terms: each has its pros and cons. Just know what you want to see and book accordingly. ✨

What to pack? I’ve written a dedicated article HERE 🎒

Stop 4 — Lençóis Maranhenses (4 days)

The last major stop of our trip is the Lençóis Maranhenses, one of the most surreal places I’ve ever seen in my life. Picture a desert of brilliant white sand dunes stretching as far as the eye can see, dotted with thousands of lagoons of fresh, crystal-clear water that form seasonally with the rains. It feels like being on another planet. 🌍✨

To get there we took two internal flights from Manaus and arrived at São Luís (SLZ). From here you’ll need to take a transfer (you can book online or ask your accommodation to organise it for you) and it’ll take 3-4 hours by car.

We decided to devote 4 full days to the Lençóis because we went in April, in the rainy season, when it rains practically every day. We figured that over 4 days, sooner or later we’d catch a bit of sun. And so we did.
If instead you go in the dry season (June-September), you can easily get by with 2-3 days: you’ll have clear skies throughout and you’ll organise everything more easily.
We were lucky anyway, because number one: it had been a particularly rainy year, so the lagoons were already beautifully full and seeing them in person is one of those things that take your breath away, truly. Number two: being low season, there was almost nobody around! Very few tourists about, deserted dunes all to ourselves, incredible footage.

🎥 Here’s the reel I made at the Lençóis, which will help you understand far better than any description what a spectacle these places are.

The two bases: Santo Amaro vs Barreirinhas

The Lençóis are explored from two different bases. I’d recommend going straight to Barreirinhas. Don’t do what we did and stay in both, because the car journey takes another 2 hours and in the end you can do it as a day tour instead and return to your base.

Santo Amaro is smaller and more authentic, less touristy, ideal if you’re after a quiet atmosphere (but there’s really nothing there, not even shops, which is why I’d advise against it). From here you set off in 4×4s where you can ride in the open part at the back, and as you bounce among the dunes it feels like being on a roller coaster. 😄 We caught a slightly overcast sky, but it was magical all the same.

Barreirinhas, on the other hand, is more touristy and organised. From here you also set off in 4×4s, but then in the dunes you go on foot only, no off-roading on the sandy trails. Here we found blazing, stone-splitting sunshine, so I’ll confess that after a few minutes’ walking we dived straight into the lagoons and didn’t move from there again.
What I would NOT recommend: the boat tour on the Rio Preguiças. Boring, long and without any kind of attraction that made it worthwhile.

Where to stay in Lençóis Maranhenses?

In Barreirinhas we stayed at the Hotel Pousada do Buriti and had a great time. Central location, a well-kept property and an excellent base from which to set off for the excursions to the Lagoa Bonita and Lagoa Azul dunes. A great choice.

Back to Rio and the end of the trip 🇧🇷

After the Lençóis we went back to Rio for the last 2 days, a sort of “decompression” before heading home to Italy. We really took them slowly, between the beach, a few aperitifs and a bit of time to enjoy one more slice of Copacabana before the journey back.

The verdict: is Brazil worth the trip? 💛
It was an intense trip, at times tiring too — the many internal flights, the relentless pace, the moves between very different climate zones… but honestly, it was worth it.
Brazil is a country that on its own contains completely different worlds: the metropolis of Rio, the natural spectacle of Iguaçu, the Amazon rainforest and the surreal magic of the Lençóis. It’s hard to find another destination capable of offering that kind of variety in a single trip.

If you’re thinking of going, my advice is just one: organise yourselves well (the internal flights need to be booked in advance, the stops need to be planned carefully, and the Amazon requires some specific logistics) and then enjoy it. ✈️🌴

🇧🇷 Boa viagem e até logo!

What I recommend packing for a trip to Brazil

Frequently asked questions about travelling in Brazil

How many days do you need for a trip to Brazil?

We did an 18-day itinerary, and that’s the minimum for taking in four such different areas at a relaxed pace (Rio, Iguaçu, the Amazon and the Lençóis Maranhenses). It was an intense trip, with several internal flights and a tight schedule. If you have less time, it’s better to pick two or three stops and experience them properly, rather than rushing.

How do you get around between the stops in Brazil?

The distances are enormous, so between one stop and the next you fly: we used internal flights with Latam, which need to be booked in advance, both for the price and because some routes involve a stopover. Within Rio, on the other hand, you get around perfectly with Uber — convenient and cheap.

When is the best time to visit the Amazon and the Lençóis Maranhenses?

It depends on what you want to see. In the Amazon the rainy season (like our April) floods the forest and has you navigating among the trees, while the dry season (September-November) lowers the water and makes it easier to spot wildlife. The Lençóis Maranhenses are at their best between June and September, when the lagoons are still full from the rains but the sky is clear: in that period 2-3 days are enough, whereas we, in April, allowed for 4 to catch the sun.

Better to visit the Iguaçu Falls from the Brazilian or the Argentine side?

My advice is to see them from both sides, because they offer completely different perspectives. The Brazilian side gives you the panoramic overview (you look head-on at the Argentine falls), while the Argentine side takes you practically inside the falls, with walkways all the way to the Garganta del Diablo. For the Argentine side you cross the border: Italians don’t need a visa, but it’s worth relying on an organised tour so you don’t waste time.